The first good watch, for twenty years running.

The number is the argument. At 37mm across, 42.5mm lug to lug and 9.5mm thick, the BM8180 fits wrists that most modern sport watches overhang. It is the size field watches were when they were issued rather than sold, and it is why the watch sits under a cuff and out of the way.

The dial is black with white Arabic numerals at twelve, three, six and nine, batons elsewhere, luminous hands, and a calendar window at three. The seconds hand carries a red tip. There is nothing on it that does not help you read the time.

Eco-Drive charges from light through the dial and, on this calibre, Citizen rates the reserve at six months from a full charge. That is long enough to survive a winter in a drawer. In normal wear the caseback is never opened, which is the whole appeal of solar on a watch this cheap.

Water resistance is 100m, 10 bar, so swimming is fine. The crystal is mineral glass, which Citizen describes as impact and shatter resistant; it will pick up scratches over the years and it will cost very little to replace.

Retailers, reviewers and this site call the BM8180-03E the Garrison, and have for years. Citizen’s own current US page lists the same reference under the name Chandler. It is one watch with two names, and the reference number is what matters when you buy.

The olive nylon strap is standard, on 18mm lugs, so swapping to leather or a different colour is a two-minute job. Most owners end up with a small drawer of straps for it, which is how a cheap watch becomes a kept one.